Blair Atholl and the Atholl Gathering
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Starting in a rain-soaked Edinburgh, with marathon runners around us, we picked up our clients from the Balmoral Hotel on Princes Street. With a swift packing of the Land Rover, we piled into our seats to make our way up to the Highlands, particularly the Atholl Gathering on the Blair Atholl Estate, the seat of the Clan Murray headed by the Duke of Atholl.
Highland games are always an interesting affair, with the sound of bagpipes, drums, and the odd grunt of the heavyweights hoofing hammers and cabers into the air. Most usually take on the formula of being centered around an arena lined with stalls selling food in the form of boar or venison burgers and others selling traditional trinkets; along with things to keep the kids entertained like the old fire engines and sometimes tractors. The Atholl Gathering is no real exception to the rule, but like them all, always worth a visit. Nestled on the grounds of the Atholl Estate with stunning gardens, like the Hercules Walled Garden, and St Bride's Kirk, there is something for everyone.
Our tourers are lucky to be visiting the area, and with the games in full swing, they have taken the advantage of watching this age-old tradition of braving the weather (at least in the case of today), to soak in the sights and sounds of the Highland Games before we make our way to Dunkeld, possibly one of my favorite towns in Scotland, for an evening at Dunkeld House. Not before visiting the castle itself for a little reprieve from the weather.
Blair Castle sits in pride of place on the Atholl estate, and for over 19 generations, Stewarts and Murrays have come and gone with varying degrees of success. A vast spell of growth from 1269 through to the Great Hall of 1530 to the Georgian redevelopment to take it from fortification to a grand house; this castle has seen its fair share of history, most recently as a hospital during the Great War.
Blair Castle is open all summer long from the end of March to the end of October, which means we tend to make our way to the castle on our Perthshire Highlands tour. It has become a firm favorite of our guests, whether it's to see the castle or for a stroll around the gardens. The interior of the castle is a treasure trove of Scottish history, with rooms filled with period furniture, weapons, and paintings that tell the tale of Scotland's turbulent past.
One of the unique highlights of Blair Castle is the private army, the Atholl Highlanders, the only legal private army in Europe. This regiment, with its distinctive tartan, dates back to the 18th century and continues to serve as the Duke of Atholl's ceremonial guard. Seeing the Atholl Highlanders march into the arena is a sight to behold, with their precise drill and the stirring sound of the pipes and drums. The formal opening of the games, marked by the firing of a cannon by Michael Murray, Marquess of Tullibardine, eldest son of the current duke, is a highlight that sets the tone for the day's festivities.
The surrounding estate offers much more than just the castle. The Hercules Garden, a beautifully restored walled garden, is a serene spot to explore. Named after the statue of Hercules that stands proudly within it, the garden is a haven of peace with its landscaped ponds, fruit trees, and vibrant flower beds. For those interested in history, St Bride's Kirk is another must-visit. This ancient church, dating back to the 16th century, is the final resting place of many members of the Murray family.
After a day of immersing ourselves in the rich culture and history of Blair Atholl, we head to Dunkeld. This picturesque town, nestled on the banks of the River Tay, offers a charming contrast to the grandeur of Blair Castle. Dunkeld House, where we spend the evening, is the perfect place to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures.
For now, I’m going to enjoy the tones of the pipes and drums as the Atholl Highlanders make their way into the arena for the formal opening of the games. The energy is palpable, the air filled with the scent of food, and the atmosphere buzzing with excitement. It's a true celebration of Scottish heritage and a reminder of why the Highland Games are such a cherished tradition.
If you get the chance to check out the games on your visit to Scotland, do it, and let me know what you think.
Cheers,
Chris
